How To Plant, Fertilize, Prune And Water Asian Jasmine Plants

Asian Jasmine is ideal for use as an erosion-controlling groundcover massed on sunny or shady embankments, hillsides and slopes. It is perfect for use under the canopies of large shade trees, decks or other overhead structures. Unless you don't mind frequent pruning to keep the plant in bounds, avoid planting in small spaces where the plant cannot be confined. Excellent for use as a spiller plant in container gardens and hanging baskets.

Here's a breakdown of what you need to know for how to plant and grow Asian Jasmine...

Asian Jasmine tolerates a wide range of soils and soil conditions, except for constantly soggy or wet soils.

Testing Soil Drainage 

If you are uncertain about soil drainage in the area you intend to plant, it's well worth taking the time to test the drainage before planting. To test soil drainage, dig a hole 12" wide by 12" deep in the planting area. Fill the hole with water and let it drain. Then, after it drains, fill it with water again, but this time clock how long it takes to drain. In well-drained soil the water level will go down at a rate of about 1 inch an hour. A faster rate, such as in loose, sandy soil, may signal potentially dry site conditions. A slower rate indicates poor draining soil and could be a caution you might need to improve drainage, plant in a raised mound or bed, or look for plants that are more tolerant of wet or boggy conditions.

Asian Jasmine grows best in an acid to slightly alkaline soil ranging from 5.5 to 7.0 on the pH scale. Most average garden soils fall between a pH range of 6.0 to 7.0. 

Asian Jasmine aren't picky at all about light. They will grow in full sun to shade. So plant and grow it anywhere!

(Scroll down to see planting instructions for containers and pots)

Note:  Asian Jasmine plants that have long, leggy runners can be clipped back by up to half their length to promote denser branching.

Spacing Recommendation:  When mass planting, space Asian Jasmine plants 18-24 inches apart.

If you applied mulch on top of the ground before planting, which is often a good idea before planting vine-like groundcover plants that have long runners, rake a small area of the mulch back in order to dig the planting hole. Start planting by using a shovel or trowel to dig your planting hole two to three times as wide and as deep or not much deeper than the root ball of your plant. Place native soil removed from planting hole around the perimeter of the hole, in a wheel barrow, or on a tarp.

Depending on the type, fertility and porosity of the soil in the planting area, it may be beneficial to amend the native soil. When planting in heavy clay or poor soils mix in organic matter such as composted manure, bagged top soil, and or a good planting mix at a 50/50 ratio with the soil. When planting in a sandy, quick-draining soil amending with top soil, organic compost, or peat moss will help to retain moisture and supply vital plant nutrients. When planting in a fertile, loamy, well-drained moist soil there is no need to amend soil.

To remove your plant from the container it was growing in, firmly grasp the base of the plant and gently lift and remove it from its container. If the root ball is stuck in the container either cut the container away or place the plant on it's side and gently pound on the side of the container to loosen the root ball. After having removed the plant from the container, use your fingers or a tool to gently loosen some feeder roots around the surface of the root ball. 

Set your plant in the planting hole so that the top edge of the rootball is at or slightly above ground level to allow for settling. It may be necessary to place some of your backfill soil mixture in the bottom of the hole to achieve proper planting height.

After setting your plant in the planting hole, use one hand to hold the plant straight while using your other hand to begin backfilling the soil mixture around the root ball, tamping as you go to remove air pockets. When you have filled the hole to the halfway point you can soak the soil. Then continue backfilling to the top edge of the root ball. To avoid suffocating your plant, do not put any soil on top of the root ball.

 After planting some or all of your plants, deeply water the entire planting area. For an extra boost, you can also water with a solution of Root Stimulator, which stimulates early root formation and stronger root development, promoting greener, more vigorous plants.

Apply a 1" layer of aged, shredded wood mulch or bark or a 1-2" layer of pine straw around your newly planted plants. Avoid using freshly chipped or shredded wood for mulch until it has cured in a pile for at least 6 months, a year is better.