Rainbow Leucothoe (Drooping Fetterbush) - Leucothoe fontanesiana - 5 Gallon Pot

Founded in 1989 by master nurserymen and twin brothers Brooks and Brent Wilson, Wilson Bros Gardens brings you awesome every day! It is our goal to blow you away with a great selection of the most exciting new and old-favorite plants and trees, and with all the information you need to grow them like the pros! 

Here's a breakdown of what you need to know...

How To Test Soil Drainage  

If you are uncertain about soil drainage in the area you intend to plant your Leucothoe, it's well worth taking the time to test the drainage before planting. To test soil drainage, dig a hole 12" wide by 12" deep in the planting area. Fill the hole with water and let it drain. Then, after it drains, fill it with water again, but this time clock how long it takes to drain. In well-drained soil the water level will go down at a rate of about 1 inch an hour. A faster rate, such as in loose, sandy soil, may signal potentially dry site conditions. A slower rate indicates poor draining soil and is a caution you need to improve drainage, plant in a raised mound or bed, or look for plants that are more tolerant of wet or boggy soil conditions.

Morning sun with afternoon shade or all day filtered sun is good. Avoid afternoon sun.

Start by digging your planting hole at least two to three times as wide and as deep or not much deeper than the root ball of your Leucothoe plant. The wider the hole the better. Place native soil removed from planting hole around the perimeter of the hole, in a wheel barrow, or on a tarp.

Depending on the type, fertility and porosity of the soil in the planting area, it might be beneficial to amend the native soil. When planting in heavy clay or poor soil it is beneficial to thoroughly mix in a good soil conditioner, planting mix, or composted organic matter at a 50/50 ratio with the soil removed from the planting hole. When planting in very sandy, quick-draining soil it's beneficial to add some top soil, organic compost, or peat moss to enhance moisture retention. When planting in fertile, loamy, well-drained moist soil there may not be a need to amend soil.

To remove your Leucothoe from the nursery pot it was growing in, firmly grasp the base of the plant and try to very gently lift and remove the plant from the pot. Be careful not to pull so hard you damage the plant. If the root ball is stuck it is best to cut the container away. After having removed the plant from the container, loosen some feeder roots around the surface of the root ball. If root bound, you can spray the sides and bottom surfaces of the root ball with a stream of water from a garden hose. This can help to wash away some soil from the exterior of the root ball making it easier to loosen roots. 

Place your Leucothoe in the planting hole so that the top edge of the root ball is at or slightly above ground level to allow for settling. It may be necessary to place some of your soil mixture in the bottom of the hole to achieve proper planting height. 

After setting your Leucothoe in the planting hole, use one hand to hold the plant straight while using your other hand to begin backfilling the soil mixture around the root ball, tamping as you go to remove air pockets. When you have filled the hole to the halfway point you can soak the soil. Then continue backfilling to the top edge of the root ball. To avoid suffocating your plant, avoid placing any soil on top of the root ball.

When planting your Leucothoe far away from a water source you can use remaining soil mixture to build a water retaining berm (catch basin/doughnut) around the perimeter of the planting hole. This basin will help to collect water from rainfall reducing the need for manual irrigation. The berm can be removed after a year or so when the plant has established itself.

Apply a 1 to 2" layer of aged, shredded or chipped wood mulch or pine straw around the planting area to conserve moisture and to suppress weed growth. As the mulch decomposes it will add vital nutrients to the soil that your plants will appreciate. Do not use freshly chipped or shredded wood for mulch until it has cured in a pile for at least 6 months, a year is better. Avoid placing or piling mulch directly against the base of your plant as this could cause the bark to rot.

Leucothoe growing in pots appreciate a moist but well-drained soil. Constantly soggy soil can cause root rot or other harmful or deadly plant diseases. Therefore, when planting an Lecouthoe in a container or pot, we recommend using a pot with a drainage hole(s) and a quality potting soil or potting mix, or a 50/50 combination thereof for planting.

Choose a container that is large enough to allow for 2 to 3 years of growth before shifting up to a larger size container. This might mean your planting pot would be 8 inches or more in diameter than the root ball of your plant. 

Container color will matter as well. Not only will you want to pick a color of container that goes well with the flower and foliage color of your Lecouthoe, you'll also want to pick a container that matches the style of your home or other structures and other plants in the surrounding environment. 

Many nursery & garden centers offer a wide variety of containers to choose from. Before heading out to buy a container take pictures of your home and the surrounding environment. Doing so will help you to choose just the right color and style.

Before filling your container with the soil mix, we recommend lining the bottom with shade cloth or a porous landscape fabric. This will keep the drain holes from becoming stopped up with soil. 

To remove your Leucothoe from the nursery pot it was growing in, firmly grasp the base of the plant and try to very gently lift and remove the root ball from the pot. Be careful not to pull so hard you damage the plant. If the root ball is stuck it is best to cut the container away. After having removed the plant from the container, loosen some feeder roots around the surface of the root ball. If root bound, you can spray the sides and bottom surfaces of the root ball with a stream of water from a garden hose. This can help to wash away some soil from the exterior of the root ball making it easier to loosen roots. 

Pour a small amount of your soil mixture in the bottom of the container. Set the rootball of your plant in the container and make necessary adjustments by adding or removing some soil so that the top edge of the rootball will sit 1/2 to 1" below the rim of the container.

Backfill around the rootball with your soil mixture, tamping as you go until the level of potting soil is even with the top edge of rootball.

Water thoroughly until water starts to drain from the holes in the bottom of the container. Add more potting mix if settling occurs during watering.

Apply a 1/2" layer of wood chips or sphagnum moss to soil surface to help conserve moisture.

Shaping: Before new growth begins to emerge, in late winter or very early spring you can use sharp bypass hand pruners to cut back stray branches that are spoiling the shape of your shrub or tree. Also remove dead or damaged branches. Cut dead branches off at their origin. Cut broken branches back to a point just beyond the break and preferably an inch or two above a leaf.