How To Plant, Prune, Fertilize, Water, Grow And Care For Pachysandra Japanese Spurge

If you're unsure about the pH of your soil, or whether or not it's suitable for growing Pachysandra, it's a good idea to test the soil pH in the planting area. You can quickly test soil pH with an inexpensive soil pH tester probe. To raise the pH (make more alkaline) you can add pelletized limestone to the soil. To lower the pH (make more acid) you can apply Soil Sulfur, Aluminum Sulfate, or Chelated Iron. Adding organic compost to the soil or using compost as mulch can also help to increase acidity and maintain acid soil conditions.

If you applied mulch on top of the ground before planting, which is often a good idea before planting groundcover plants, rake a small area of the mulch back in order to dig the planting hole. Start planting by using a shovel or trowel to dig your planting hole two to three times as wide and as deep or not much deeper than the root ball of your plant. Place native soil removed from planting hole around the perimeter of the hole, in a wheel barrow, or on a tarp.

Depending on the type, fertility and porosity of the soil in the planting area, it may be beneficial to amend the native soil. When planting in heavy clay or poor soils mix in organic matter such as composted manure, bagged top soil, and or a good planting mix at a 50/50 ratio with the soil. When planting in a sandy, quick-draining soil amending with top soil, organic compost, or peat moss will help to retain moisture and supply vital plant nutrients. When planting in a fertile, loamy, well-drained moist soil there is no need to amend soil.

To remove your plant from the container it was growing in gently squeeze the sides of the container to loosen the rootball. If the root ball is stuck in the container cut the container away. After having removed the plant from the container, use your fingers to loosen some feeder roots around the surface of the root ball. 

Tip: It is optional, but if your Pachysandra plants are leggy you can cut them back by half their height with pruning shears when you plant them. This encourages plants to develop fuller and fill in bare space more quickly.

Set your plant in the planting hole so that the top edge of the rootball is at or slightly above ground level to allow for settling. It may be necessary to place some of your backfill soil mixture in the bottom of the hole to achieve proper planting height.

After setting your plant in the planting hole, use one hand to hold the plant straight while using your other hand to begin backfilling the soil mixture around the root ball, tamping as you go to remove air pockets. When you have filled the hole to the halfway point you can soak the soil. Then continue backfilling to the top edge of the root ball. To avoid suffocating your plant, do not put any soil on top of the root ball.

Apply a 1" layer of aged, shredded wood mulch or bark or a 1-2" layer of pine straw around your newly planted groundcovers. Avoid using freshly chipped or shredded wood for mulch until it has cured in a pile for at least 6 months, a year is better. 

When established, Pachysandra aren't heavy feeders but young plants will appreciate an annual feeding in early spring with a slow-release shrub & tree type fertilizer or an organic plant food. Because Pachysandra likes an acid soil, choose a fertilizer that contains iron and/or sulfur for deep greening. Iron and sulfur can be applied separately at any time of year to increase soil acidity. When applying fertilizer or nutrients always follow instructions on the product label.

In average garden soil you should not have to water your newly planted Pachysandra plants every day. More often than not, this causes soggy soil conditions that can lead to root rot and other plant diseases. In the absence of sufficient rainfall, water only as needed to keep the rootball and surrounding soil damp to moist. Keep in mind that deep soaking less frequently is much better than splashing just a little water on the plants every day. Plants planted during the winter dormant season, when not actively growing and evaporation is much slower, will require much less water. So, be extra careful not to overwater during winter!

When established,Pachysandra is quite drought tolerant. Supplemental irrigation is only necessary during extended dry periods. If during a drought you see leaves wilting this could be an indicator that your plants could use a good deep soaking.