River Birch Tree (Betula nigra) - 1 Gallon Pot

Founded in 1989 by master nurserymen and twin brothers Brooks and Brent Wilson, Wilson Bros Gardens brings you awesome every day! It is our goal to blow you away with a great selection of the most exciting new and old-favorite plants and trees, and with all the information you need to grow them like the pros! 

How To Test Soil Drainage  

If you are uncertain about soil drainage in the area you intend to plant your River Birch, it's well worth taking the time to test the drainage before planting. To test soil drainage, dig a hole 12" wide by 12" deep in the planting area. Fill the hole with water and let it drain. Then, after it drains, fill it with water again, but this time clock how long it takes to drain. In well-drained soil the water level will go down at a rate of about 1 inch an hour. A faster rate, such as in loose, sandy soil, may signal potentially dry site conditions and the need to add top soil, peat moss or other organic matter to retain some moisture. A slower rate indicates poor draining soil, which the River Birch doesn't mind. That said, prolonged periods of standing water could be problematic. 

To plant, set your tree in the planting hole so that the top edge of the root ball is at ground level. If necessary, add some backfill soil mixture to the bottom of the hole to achieve proper planting height. 

Next, deeply water the planting area, including the root ball, to a depth equal to the height of the root ball. For an extra boost, to stimulate early root formation and stronger root development you can also water you newly planted River Birch with a solution of Root Stimulator, which reduces transplant shock and promotes greener, more vigorous plants.

Apply a 2-inch layer of aged, shredded or chipped wood mulch or 3 to 4-inch layer of pine straw around the planting area to conserve moisture and to suppress weed growth. As the mulch decomposes it will add vital nutrients to the soil that your tree will appreciate. Avoid the use of freshly chipped or shredded wood for mulch until it has cured in a pile for at least 6 months, a year is better. Avoid placing or piling mulch directly against the base of your tree as this could cause the bark to rot.

If your tree will be exposed to high wind it may require staking. If so, here's some instructions for staking a tree. For smaller trees, the 'Single Stake Method' is usually enough to secure the tree and hold it straight up. For larger trees the Triple Stake method works best.

For smaller trees, use one long stake driven firmly into the ground so that it crosses the trunk of the tree at an angle a foot or two above the ground (depending on height of tree). Use a piece of cloth or a section of rubber water hose to tie trunk loosely against the stake. Avoid using metal wire as this could damage the bark of your tree.

For taller trees, you can drive three 18-inch long stakes at a 45 degree angle into the ground to a point where 4 to 6 inches of the stake remains above ground. Equally space these stakes around the tree in solid ground. Use wire or nylon string to tie from the stake to the tree. Where the wire or string will come into contact with the trunk of your tree, make sure to run the string or wire through rubber hosing to protect the bark. More on that just below.

Tie your wire or string to the trunk of the tree above branch so that it won't slide down the trunk. To prevent damage to the bark of your tree, rubber hosepipe should be used where the wire touches the stem or branches.